L. T. Piver is one of the oldest fragrance makers in France that are still active today. The foundation of the company is contemporary with Lubin, Houbigant, Guerlain, E. Coudray and Oriza Legrand. It was in 1774 that the French perfumer and glove maker Michel Adam opened his boutique 'A La Reine des Fleurs' in Paris, around the time he was launching L'Essence Vestimentale, a lavender-based fragrance. The opening of the shop happened due to the success he had after being named the main supplier of perfumed products for the Royal Court of Louis XVI. Today his seminal work is still alive under the name of L.T. Piver, an important element in French perfume culture.
The company first became involved with the selling of perfumes when they sold perfumed gloves whey were awarded the title of "Parfumeur-Gantier" in 1769. Michel Adam established a small shop at 82 rue de Lombards, Paris between 1769 and 1774 and added A le Reine des Fleurs, to its name, which remained as it's subtitle. Piver received royal warrants to supply fragrances to both Louis XVI and William IV and became known as 'parfumeur to the world'.
Succeeded by family members, Paul Guillaume and Dissey and later in 1813 by Louis-Toussaint Piver, whose name was adopted as the new company name in 1823. Alphonse Piver succeeded LT Piver . The company participated in all of the major exhibitions in the 19th & 20th centuries. Louis Sue and Andre Mare redesigned the Piver shop in the 1920s and Louis Sue designed Reve D'Or presentation.
Piver was frequently a leader in new perfume designs and concepts. Some of his best known presentations included the most beautiful Alphonse Mucha inspired-Art Nouveau floral graphics for the Floramye, Azurea, Aubade, and Safranor lines. From the early 20th century into the 1930's and later, the firm was a leader creator of new perfumes, many of which were produced in flacons by Baccarat. In 1995, Piver re-marketed three of its earlier successes, Floramye, Un Parfum d'Aventure, and Cuir de Russie. All three of these are currently sold today.
"When we think of the classic French perfume houses the ones that usually spring to mind are Guerlain, Chanel, and Caron. These three have managed to weather numerous storms over the decades, but there’s another one that hasn’t been so fortunate. L.T. Piver was once known around the world, and famously had its own double fronted store on London’s Regent Street, but changing times saw it fall out of fashion. Even its legendary Pompeia, Rêve d’Or, and Héliotrope Blanc fragrances couldn’t stop it disappearing from dressing tables. However, it has always managed to cling on, and who doesn’t love a fighter?
I’ve covered the convoluted history of L.T. Piver in the past but here’s a very quick rundown. In 1774 the company was founded by Michel Adam in Paris, but was called A la Reine des Fleurs. Ownership passed to Michel’s son and then to his cousin, Pierre-Guillaume Dissey. He went into partnership with a gentleman by the name of Louis Toussaint Piver and the company subsequently became Dissey et Piver. Upon Pierre’s death the name finally became L.T. Piver and it stayed in family hands until its sale in 1982 to, what would become, Rhône Poulenc. However, in 1988 control passed to Eric Amouyal.
Ciel d'Eté launched in 1959 and so was a child of the Rocking Fifties, cleverly aimed at the Swinging Sixties, but with a tradition stretching back to the Roaring Twenties. With the greatest respect to the company and the uncredited perfumer, it does bear a definite resemblance to Chanel No. 5. However, to my mind it’s an early example of taking a bestseller, distilling its very essence, but adding a unique touch. It's suggested that this could have been a rerelease, the original launch being around the time of L’Aimant by Coty, but this is unconfirmed. My bottle was thankfully in remarkable condition, and so it’s time to rediscover Ciel d'Eté.
A lot of the opening citrus has survived and so presents as a crisp blast of lemon and neroli, but in the background is a deliciously soapy aldehyde that almost brings with it a sandalwood quality. However, you’re also treated to a beautiful green herbaceous note which lasts throughout, and which is definitely Piver’s unique touch. The floral heart is harder to decipher, there’s definitely rose, jasmine, sweat pea, and violet, but it's the base which is the revelation. A dry vetiver pairs seamlessly with a powdery iris note before a smooth patchouli and amber accord gently glides into play. However, a final subtle dose of civet definitely signals that this is a perfume from another time.
Ciel d'Eté by L.T. Piver is unfortunately discontinued, although bottles do occasionally appear on various auction sites." Stephan Matthews
While these are not the exact notes of this lovely fresh perfume, Stephan Matthews describes them like this ..
Top notes are Aldehydes, Citrus, Lemon, and Neroli
Heart notes Green Herbacious Notes, Rose, Jasmine, Sweat Pea, and Violet
Base notes are Sandalwood, Vetiver, Iris, Patchouli, and Amber
An absolutely delightful perfume which I was able to smell myself because this bottle has a plastic insert under the lid. Beautiful condition and it shows little to no evaporation. Comes in its delightful original presentation box. A real find! In the advertising for this product it is called "Parfum de Lumière" or "Perfume of Light"!
Was $385 .. Now on Sale $180 ..
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