Jean Patou, Adieu Sagesse, 'Goodbye Wisdom!', 30 ml. of 1 oz. Flacon, Parfum Extrait, 1925, 2000, Paris, France ..

When couturier Jean Patou arrived on the Paris scene, in the 1920s, the world was changing .. especially for women. No longer corseted, bound by convention or whalebone ‘stays’, there was a spirit of freedom in the air .. and Jean Patou captured it.

He was born in 1887, in Normandy, where Jean Patou‘s father was a renowned leather tanner, known for his bookbinding skills. And it was his father who taught Jean Patou all about color.

After going to work for an uncle in the fur trade, Jean Patou launched his own venture as a dressmaker and furrier, moving into tailoring. And in 1914, just before the war broke out, he established his own couture house. Sadly, his first collection had to be mothballed: Jean Patou left Paris to serve as a captain in the French Zouave regiment, fighting as far afield as Anatolia. But in 1919, Patou returned to Paris, and did indeed launch a collection, including long-waisted shepherdess dresses. He became famous for ‘sportif chic’ .. clothes designed to move, to flutter, to flirt gorgeously .. and to show off brazenly bare legs, in short hemlines.

In 1922 .. a slight career sidetrack, perhaps .. Jean Patou opened a nightclub, with fellow designer Edward Molyneux. It was named Le Jardin de Ma Soeur (My Sister's Garden). The highly social writer Anita Loos called it ‘the most elegant place in which to greet the Paris dawn'.

From 1925, Jean Patou was also creating the most desirable of perfumes. His debut perfumes were designed to complement women with a particular hair colour: Que Sais-Je? was for brunettes, Amour Amour was for blondes, and Adieu Sagesse was for redheads. In 1927, Jean Patou also delighted women with the introduction of Huile de Chaldée, the world’s first suntan oil.

Adieu Sagesse was launched in 1925 by Jean Patou and is a Chypre Floral fragrance for women. The nose behind this fragrance is Henri Almeras.

Top notes are Neroli, Narcissus, Bergamot, Lily-of-the-Valley, and Black Currant
Heart notes are Carnation, Jasmine, and Tuberose
Base note is Vetiver

"This original is a warm, spicy amber/musk creation, which is so well blended (one of Patou's signature achievements in most of their scents) that it is difficult to pick out individual notes, they are all so subtle. The use of real carnation oil rather than the cloyingly heavy clove oil used by lesser houses is evident and makes all the difference, adding a light peppery fragrance, which balances the apple blossom beautifully. Despite the heavy and animalic base notes listed, these do not intrude on the over all impression. It is a well done creation - warm, spicy, peppery and above all, light as a breeze." Basenotes Review. Jack Twist

"Adieu Sagesse was one of three Patou fragrances released together in the early 1920s: the heavy rose-based Amour Amour was intended for brunettes; the light floral Que Sais Je for blondes, and the tart, spicy Adieu Sagesse was for redheads. This was one of my favorite Patou fragrances, and of my favorite autumn/winter perfumes of all time. It was very strong, dominated by cloves and a complex mixture of numerous powerful spices, and was rather pungent - there was very little, if any, sweetness to the perfume. I remember it as not being instantly likeable (especially in comparison to sweeter perfumes), but, rather, took a while to work its magic, and grow on you - once it did, it was absolutely wonderful!). In a way, I would describe it as a forerunner to Opium type Oriental perfumes." Basenotes Review. Infini

Offered here is a stunning one ounce flacon of this wonderful perfume, with its exquisite blackberry bouchon. It comes in its original box and is very hard to find now. A treasure ..