Vonna, Coffret Set, Cuir de Russie, 'Russian Leather', Chypre, & No. 11, 15 ml. or 0.5 oz. x 3 Flacons, Parfum Extrait, 1936, Paris, France

Little is known about the perfume house called Vonna, as they faded into obscurity after the war. Perhaps one would need to travel back in time to be able to further pull back the curtain that shrouds Vonna. There is at least one related perfume I recall noting in the Encyclopaedia of Perfume, a self-titled Vonna, launched in 1936 plus those in this coffret set.

* Cuir de Russie .. In reading a review on Vonna's Cuir de Russie, the writer stated that it was beyond fabulous! On a label affixed to that Vonna Cuir de Russie bottle was a badge that reads 'Produits de Scientifique de Beaute de Vonna, Cachet de Garantie'.

History tells us that in 1926 the very similarly named Academie Scientifique de Beaute was born in Paris. The company, which is still family owned to this day, was founded by the French pharamcist Georges Gay, and they claim to have opened the first scientific beauty academy to train aestheticians in 1928.

Opulent compositions of woody and leathery notes in a heart of the perfume are accentuated with amber notes in a base. Warm, mysterious sandalwood, drier and sharper cedar and vetiver, resin-like and balmy exotic notes accompanied with aromatic and citrusy notes. Labdanum, and patchouli come forward in the dry down.

"Without comparing it to anything, the Vonna Cuir smells strongly of leather. But a side-by-side comparison of a 1930-40 era Chanel Cuir de Russie reveals the Vonna is a much softer leather scent than the Beaux/Chanel version, making the Vonna seem like an almost suede-like, a more modern rendition of leather. This is indeed a softer and surprisingly supple turn of leather."

"Vonna's Cuir De Russie opens fittingly with an overdose of orange blossom. I say fitting because the fleshy orange blossom petals that fall from our orange trees this time of year have a naturally leathery, almost petrolish tone with an almost narcotic, honeysuckle-sweet nectar scent. Along with orange blossom, Vonna's leather seems to have been cured in a vat of violet petals .. thanks to a heavy touch of ionones, no doubt. It dries down to an ultra-smooth, almost sweet tonka-suede nougat that maintains its leather character while becoming more and more powdery; you can detect on paper 24-48 hours and long beyond. All in all, Vonna is a fantastic leather perfume for the vintage collector, if you can find it." The Vintage Perfume Vault

Top notes are Neroli and Orange Blossom
Heart notes are Orange, Violet, Nutmeg, Rosemary, and Juniper
Base notes are Leather, Cedar, Vetiver, Balsam, Labdanum, and Patchouli

This has neither the pungent birch tar notes of cuirs from the 19th century, nor the polished, somewhat sweet notes of the Chanel version. It almost waffles on the fence between leather and pure chypre, sometimes leaning in one direction, sometimes the other, during its extensive dry down. Certainly a treasure and worth searching out!

* Chypre .. "Chypre is a formula built around earthy patchouli and loamy, smooth oak moss plus labdanum. Labdanum is a richly fragrant lichen-like substance that was first combed from the hair of goats who picked it up grazing on the Mediterranean rock-rose shrub. The patchouli is refined and sublime without any of the spikey, sinus penetrating fumes. This base is rounded out by the classic harmony of citrus against a floral. The rose begins dusty pale; the bergamot was shy at first but it bloomed thanks to a muggy evening. The leather has a savory/creamy tang similar to goat's milk and under it all is a surprisingly familiar musky finish." The Vintage Perfume Vault

This beautiful Chypre, launched in 1923, is warm and dry and built around a woody, mossy accord of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli and labdanum or cistus. There are strong elements of flowers, fruits or woodiness, with a sweet powdery dry down that leaves one with a warm feminine floral note. While there are no notes for Vonna on the Internet, the construction will be something like this ...

Top notes are Bergamot, Neroli, Orange Blossom, and Ylang Ylang
Middle notes are Rose, Jasmine, Oak Moss, Labdanum, Anise, and Coriander
Base notes are Bay Laurel, Pine, Sandalwood, and Almond

* No. 11 .. I can find very little about No. 11, but my guess would be that it is a summery feminine floral to be grouped with this Cuir and Chypre.

"No. 11 was launched in 1940. It has been discontinued for many years and is very hard to find. There are no published notes in any of my references, so I will sample this to tell you what I think it smells like. I believe it would be classified as an oriental fragrance for women. I think this smells like a mixture of Shalimar and L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain, very sweet with vanilla, spices and incense. Delightful!"

"Top notes are Anise, Aldehydes, Vanilla, Leather, Bergamot, Lemon, Neroli, Tarragon, Coriander, and Sage
Heart notes are Carnation, Tuberose, Violet, Heliotrope, Galbanum, Jasmine, Rose, Ylang Ylang, and Orris
Base notes are Benzoin, Labdanum, Sandalwood, Ambergris, Oak Moss, Patchouli, Vetiver, Incense, Civet, Vanilla, and Tonka Bean

Offered here is a charming Coffret set containing half ounce bottles of Vonna Cuir de Russie, Chypre, and No. 11. Still sealed and never opened with ties and baudruche in tact, this is a most historical and lovely little set. The Cuir de Russie has survived the best regarding evaporation, indicating a good seal. Collectors!