SAMPLE .. Melliers, Héliotrope, Quadruple Extrait, DECANTED SAMPLE from Flacon, 1887, St. Louis, Missouri, United States ..

Mellier Drug Company of Saint Louis, St Louis, Mo.; launched a range of fragrances at the turn of the 20th century. Mellier Drug Company was located at 2112 Locust Street, St Louis. Established 1865. Incorporated 1887.

This company created a great number of perfumes between 1885 and 1933. Cleopatra's Boudoir.

Héliotrope was first created in 1870, and was very popular during the years from 1878-1883. Héliotrope is a sweet-scented plant which is called Héliotrope because it follows the course of the sun. After opening it gradually turns from the east to the west and during the night turns again to the east to meet the rising sun. The Ancients recognized this characteristic of the plant and applied it to mythology.

It was already sold by Guerlain in 1890's and actually it represents one of the first perfumes based on the new synthetic molecule called heliotropine which smells like almond and vanilla and many Guerlain perfumes used it. In those early days Héliotrope became a type of perfume, and one of the first "fantasy" soliflore fragrances.

Heliotropin was discovered in 1869 by Fittig and Mielk who synthesised it and thus made the ‘sweet cherry pie' note of the Héliotrope flower, for which it is named, available to perfumers for the first time .. it was already in use in fragrances by the early 1880s.

Heliotropine occurs naturally in a range of botanicals including dill, violet flowers, black pepper and others and is used for vanilla or almond accords to bring a balsamic character and also has powdery, floral aspects. Despite having acquired the name heliotropine for its similar scent to that of the Héliotrope flower this chemical does not itself appear in the flower scent and so cannot be extracted from those flowers. The perfume has a sparkling quality, amazing for its age, and has notes of Lemon, Bergamot, Lilac, and Almond.

"Heliotrope is a delicate plant with a warm scent, difficult to cultivate in gardens due to its
need for balanced sun and shade. The scent has been likened to both vanilla and almond, but walks a fine line between the two, and is its own unique creation.

"Piperonal, also known as heliotropin, is an organic compound which is commonly found in fragrances and flavors. The molecule is structurally related to other aromatic aldehydes such as benzaldehyde and vanillin. It was discovered and marketed in perfume in 1870 and has been used to replicate the scent of heliotrope in many perfumes. It has a sweet, nutty, and floral demeanor. It is also an excellent fixative.

"Guerlain has used Heliotropin to its finest display in both their L’Heure Bleue and Apres L’Ondee.

"I have experienced many soliflore Heliotrope perfumes in my day, but most seem to just miss the elusive essence of the flower. Closest has been the Guerlain (Heliotrope Blanc 1890) and worst has been the Etro (the latter blatant vanilla and almond oil).

"Melliers Heliotrope from 1887 uses the same ingredients as does the Guerlain and for my nose,
is an exact equivalent. In short, the two are rivals for the best soliflore Heliotrope ever made.
The Melliers is a quadruple strength extrait, so although delicate, it is very long lasting.
Four thumbs up for the Melliers Heliotrope." Jack Twist, Review

"Notes are Lemon, Bergamot, Heliotropin, Anise, Lilac, Almond, Vanilla

Offered here is an opportunity to buy a sample of this extremely old and rare perfume that was created in 1887, right when the Héliotrope craze was at its height. It took me great effort to carefully open this ancient bottle .. enormously rare and a wonderful glimpse into history ..