Gueldy, Fougère de la Couronne, Ferns of the Couronne, 30 ml. or 1 oz. Flacon, Parfum Extrait, 1910, 1940, Paris, France ..

Gueldy was established in 1905 by Lelaurin and A. Sergent at 370 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore in Paris. Later Gueldy. Inc., also operated at 21 East 40th St.. New York. Gueldy became a major company with large exports and it won a gold medal at the 1925 Paris Exhibition.

I love this perfume, and it is a classic fougère that was first launched in 1910. Even though it may not seem obvious, a whole class of fragrances is named after ferns, and is known as the 'Fougère Family'. Fougère means "fern-like" in French and designates the whole class of modern fragrances inspired by the classic Fougère Royale by Houbigant, designed by Paul Parquet in 1882.

Fougère types of fragrances, which are especially prized as fragrances for men, typically have herbal lavender top notes with oak moss and coumarin bases. Fragrances belonging to the Fougère family are characteristically fresh, mossy, cool, herbaceous and damp. The inspiration behind them is green lush woodlands where ferns are typically found, in this case the area known as La Couronne in France.

This particular Fougère is not as green and herbaceous as Gueldy's 'Le Billet Doux', as has an underlying layer of floral notes, particularly lavender, violet, and orris, but it has a deep rich middle layer that is almost spicy and delicious. Tempered by some soft woods of cedar and sandalwood, the result is a wonderful complex, heady perfume with fantastic sillage.

"Gueldy produced 52 fragrances from 1910 to 1935. Among the most popular are: Ador, Ambre, Le Bois Sacre, Le Billet Doux, Le Triomphe, Bal des Fleurs, La Lys Rouge.

"Lavender, oak moss and coumarin are the usual three notes required in a typical fougere, but Gueldy's take on the genre is far from typical. This is a restrained fougere, dry and earthy, with a subdued floral underpinning (violet and orris have been suggested). Cedar and sandalwood provide a soft base. A combination of rose and carnation emerges during the dry down that give the warmth a certain spicy and sexy note, similar to what one might expect from the house of Myrurgia. This is one fougère that does not smell too masculine ... and can be worn by both men and women in this modern age." Basenotes Review. Jack Twist

Top notes are Lavender and Violet
Heart notes are Orris, Rose, and Carnation
Base notes are Cedar, Sandalwood, Coumarin, Tonka Bean, Amber, Patchouli, and Oak Moss

Presented in a gorgeous and quite full flacon of this delicious perfume is very rare. From my own personal collection .. certainly one of the finest fougères known. Highly collectible ..