Parfumerie Veolay was renamaed Violet to avoid confusion with violette perfumes, and it was one of the lesser-known French perfume houses, even though it was among the earliest established in France and among the first to establish an agency in America. While not as old as Lubin, Houbigant or L T Piver and some others, the Parfumerie Violet name first appeared in 1828 although some suggest an even earlier beginning in around 1810, when it was known as 'La Reine des Abeilles' .. The Queen Bee of Perfumers. In fact, a Queen Bee seal would become a characteristic and immediately recognizable symbol of the company from the time of its establishment until its eventual decline.
The event that was probably most responsible for Parfumerie Violet perfumes being introduced to America was the 1900 Paris Exposition. There, despite fierce competition from houses such as Houbigant, Bourjois and many others, as well as a rather presumptuous American company named Richard Hudnut, Parfumerie Violet was awarded the Grand Prix for its fragrance Ambre Royale. As notable an achievement as this was, collectors will find that Violet’s advertising ephemera is equally notable. After some time of selling perfumes in both France and America, the company decided to change the name to Veolay to avoid confusion with violet perfume.
Launched in 1932, Apogée, which means ‘the highest accomplishment’ is a beautiful soft leather or cuir perfume. Layered over delicious floral notes, the dry down is soft, powdery and reminiscent of the most gorgeous kid gloves!
Leather may be a traditionally male note, but plenty of feminine chypres are underpinned by notes of leather .. often with tobacco, too, as they marry so beautifully. Leather chypres may also feature ‘animalic’ notes like civet, musk, ambergris, as well as honey, tarry notes and woods; they tend to have more staying power, because base notes quite simply cling to the skin for longer. But within this family, there are nuances: chypre leather scents can vary from floral to velvety or smoky. Apogée is a floral leather or cuir.
The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy.
Top notes are Rose, Jasmine and Ylang Ylang
Middle notes are Birch, Juniper, Cade Oil, and Cistus Labdanum
Base notes are Styrax, Cassie, Myrtle, and Sandalwood
Offered here is an historic half oz. bottle of Apogée which has never been used. I have lifted the cap and smelled it, and it is in wonderful leathery condition. A real treasure .. I have only ever seen one of these before. For cuir lovers!!
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