Molinard, Jasmin, Jasmine, 50 ml. or 1.69 oz. Flacon, Parfum Extrait, 1860, 1923, Paris, France ..

The Maison Molinard was founded in 1849 in Grasse, Provence, in the south of France, cradle of the world's perfume industry. It has remained an entirely family-run business to this day, and is also the oldest of its kind. At that time, Molinard produced floral waters and Eaux de Cologne, which it sold in its "little shop" in the town centre. In 1891, Queen Victoria stayed at Grasse, and bought Eaux de Cologne there.

In 1900, the company moved into an old perfume factory, where the distillery structure was designed by Gustave Eiffel. Molinard is still there today. A typical Provençal showroom was set up, and its first customers were wealthy foreigners from England and Russia. They came to admire its magnificent collection of 17th and 18th century furniture, and buy Molinard eaux de Cologne together with all its floral fragrances.

Jasmin is a jasmine soliflore, whose first incarnation appeared in 1860 at the time when Molinard, following the fashion of the times, was building its reputation thanks to its soliflores and eaux parfumées. The scent is part of the collection Les Fleurs de Provence .. or Flowers of Provence .. which to this day continues to propose a range of single-note scents. It continues a cultural tradition that associated the personality of a woman with her particular bloom of choice. Like a medieval lady exhibiting her personal colors, a 19th and early 20th century lady would have left her signature trail of violet, heliotrope, rose or tuberose ..

Jasmin de Molinard therefore smells principally of jasmine with certain characteristics that distinguish it from other jasmine soliflores. These nuances are not glaring but noteworthy. It strikes one foremost that Jasmin seems to be characteristically equal parts floral and animalic. The indoles, which belong to the flower, with their sweet sexual scent, are present from the beginning and quite strong in the initial development of the perfume, to the point where they start suggesting the scent of leather.

Molinard Jasmin however is not as animalic as Bourbon French Jasmine, the most animalic jasmine one might encounter and which immediately brings to mind the animalic side, because it is equally balanced out by fresh, sweet and soft floral notes. There seems to be a crisp bluish hyacinth note in the mix, as well as some muguet.

When you apply the scent, it starts off fresh and then the heady jasmine makes its entrance. The sharp notes are toned down by the roundness of orange blossom while retaining a discreet, crisp green quality. The perfume progressively mellows down and becomes less aggressive, staying closer to the body while drying down to a musky floral impression. The animalic impression fades away a bit, but does not leave entirely, always there in the base while the fecal notes of indoles are quite discernable when one pays closer attention. The dry-down is soft and floral. Because of its leather whip-like effect, it makes us think that this could be considered a jasmine perfume conventionally suitable to men.

Top notes are Green Notes, Citrus, Neroli, and Bergamot
Heart notes are Rose, Jasmine, and Orange Blossom
Base notes rest on a Sandalwood Accord

Offered here is an exquisite flacon of Molinard's Jasmin from the 1920's. The inkwell shape and the flowering nature of the flacon are outstanding. The perfume is beautiful. An exceptional find ..