SAMPLE .. Guerlain, Cuir de Russie, 'Russian Leather', DECANTED SAMPLE from Flacon, Parfum Extrait, Flacon Carre, 1872, Paris, France ..

Cuir de Russie by Guerlain is a Leather fragrance for women and men. This perfume was launched in 1872. The nose behind this fragrance is Aime Guerlain.

"The name Cuir de Russie, meaning "Russian leather", was by all accounts inspired by the historical fact that the Russian army used highly fragrant birch tar to tan and treat its military boots, giving the leather a very characteristic odour. The Guerlain annals reveal that Aimé Guerlain used the name Cuir de Russie as far back as 1872, but since his original fragrance was reformulated by Jacques Guerlain in 1935, we don't know what it smelled like.

Right from the start, we’re hit by the poignant smoky-black scent of birch tar, smelling like the commingled odours of a fireplace, a tannery, and fence paint. Hidden underneath is a very feminine flower bouquet of gardenia, lilac and ylang-ylang, but the smoky top note almost overpowers it. The most interesting part of the perfume is perhaps when the smoke fades and we surprisingly find the scent of Mitsouko, actually its whole roster of bergamot, peach, rose, jasmine, oakmoss, orris, patchouli and musk.

Cuir de Russie is a curiosity in the world of Guerlain, a perfume whose bitter smokiness very few of today's women would find pleasant, possibly attracting only a discerning minority. Perfume aficionados, however, tend to be fascinated with historic leather scents.” Excerpts from Monsieur Guerlain.

Top notes are Lavender, Rosemary, Thyme, Bergamot, and Neroli
Heart nots are Jasmine, Gardenia, Rose, Lilac, Ylang Ylang, Birch, Amber, and Patchouli
Base notes are Rosewood, Vetiver, Styrax, Labdanum, Benzoin, Oak Moss, Leather, and Orris

"The fragrance opens with a distinctly herbacious note which is both powerful and masculine, a sharp contrast to Gabrielle’s classic aldehydic opening. This intense green and almost medicinal quality gives rise to the richest, smokiest leather I have ever experienced, making it evident that the fragrance was composed long before any restrictions on birch tar came into effect. The impression is of a much more rustic and pre-revolutionary Russia than either of its 20th century counterparts, which evoke more of a Russian in Paris feel. Not so the Guerlain, which reminds me of the thick, rough leather boots of a cossack warrior atop a charging steed in the cold night air.

While the intensity of smoke and leather is prevalent for several hours, making me question the scent’s intended gender audience, the fragrance does a complete about-face in the drydown, softening into a gorgeously soft floral bouquet. There is a hint of jasmine overlaying the leather which has now receded into the background, deepened by hints of vanilla and animalic notes.
It is this odd interplay between masculine and feminine elements that reveals the true magic of the House of Guerlain. These disparate fragrance themes could not have been carried out by any other perfumer, and yet Guerlain flawlessly melds the two into one, invoking the grandeur of a revolutionary fantasy with the promise of a bright and beautiful future." Quintessence.

Offered here is an opportunity to buy a decant from this magnificent flacon of wonderful perfume. Not for the faint of heart, this Cuir is tarry and bold, taking a while in the dry down to exhibit its softer side. Suited to both men and women.