De Trévise, also known as Detrévise, has become an obscure parfumerie now, but was once well known in Paris at the beginning of the last century. Also known as the Parfumerie Royal, because the company purveyed their products to the royal courts, the de Trévise Parfumerie was established at 9th Arrondissement on the 13 Rue de Trévise.
Amador De Trévise was launched in 1920, and is presented in a stylish black glass bottle that is disk shaped, with gilded lines radiating from a circle in the center, and it sports a beautiful demilune stopper or bouchon made of gilded black glass. Amador De Tréviseis a gorgeous Peau d'Espagne or Spanish leather perfume. ‘Amador' means ‘Lover’ in Spanish. British sexologist Havelock Ellis esteemed Peau d'Espagne as "a highly complex and luxurious perfume, often the favorite scent of sensuous persons" and noted that "it is said by some, probably with a certain degree of truth, that Peau d'Espagne is of all perfumes that which most nearly approaches the odor of a woman's skin."
The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the scent of animal skin.
Much of the trend for Spanish Leather and Russian Leather or Cuir perfumes also arose from the great furriers of the day who created Cuir perfumes to hide the smell of freshly tanned furs and hides. In the 1920s, one of Coco Chanel's lovers was Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich of Russia, the cousin of Tsar Nicholas II, and, according to Chanel's biographer Justine Picardie, the Chanel Cuir de Russie was the "bottled ... essence of her romance with the Grand Duke.”
Several famous leather perfumes emerged in the 1920’s, a time at which the impact of Les Ballets Russes (1909-1929) was very palpable. Russian émigrés having fled the motherland because of the revolution in 1917, had populated Paris and had lent it their own mark of decadent sophistication. Suddenly the exotic East, in which westerners classified the vast Russias since before the time of Peter the Great, became all the rage and the embodiment of everything forbidden and alluring. The datchas, the orthodox churches, the ballads on balalaikas, the Cossacks. Coco Chanel herself would indulge sartorially into the craze for all things Russian, setting up the atelier Kitmir, which would later create the broderies inspired by Russian folklore for Jean Patou, himself the lover of the Grand Duchess of Russia!
The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III. It was the Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of his scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it into a body fragrance for him. It was Peau d’Espagne!
"De Trévise, also known as Detrévise, is an obscure parfumerie now, but was once well known in Paris at the beginning of the 20th century. The de Trevise Parfumerie was also known as the Parfumerie Royal, because the company purveyed their products to the royal courts. Amador De Trévise was launched in 1920, and was presented in a stylish black glass bottle that was disk shaped, with gilded lines radiating from a circle in the center (reminiscent of Guerlain’s presentation of its Vol de Nuit), and it sports a beautiful demilune stopper or bouchon, made of gilded black glass."
Basenotes Review. Jack Twist
Top Notes are Orange Blossom, Bergamot, Mandarin, and Clary Sage.
Heart Notes are Iris, Jasmine, Rose, Ylang Ylang, Vanilla, Tobacco, Leather, and Cassie.
Base Notes are Birch, Juniper, Myrtle, Labdanum, Castoreum, Cade Oil, Styrax, and Cistus.
The smoky, leathery base comes from birch and cade oil. Perfumers traditionally used these oils to mimic the smell of tanned hides. The Sweet & Powdery Depth comes from the Iris or Orris Root, Vanilla, and Cassie which soften the harsh leather notes. They give the perfume its "sensuous skin" quality. The Animalic Grounding comes from the Castoreum and the Labdanum adds a warm, amber-like, and slightly musky depth. This helps the scent last for days.
Offered here is an opportunity to buy a decanted sample from this very rare bottle of this absolutely stunning soft leather fragrance. I happen to own a bottle myself, and I can attest to its delicious scent! Super rare and collectible and very hard to find . .
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