Guerlain, Cuir de Russie, 'Russian Leather', 80 ml. or 2.81 oz. Flacon, Parfum Extrait, Flacon Carre, ‘Etiquette Laurier’, 1872, 1925, Paris

The House of Guerlain is one of the oldest perfume houses in the world. It was founded in 1828 when Pierre-Francois Pascal Guerlain opened up his first perfume store on 42, Rue de Rivoli in Paris.

Pierre-Francois composed and manufactured custom perfumes with the help of his two sons, Aime & Gabriel. His unique approach was to personalize perfume for a specific person, place or event. Honore de Balzac commisioned his own eau de toilette during the writing of Cesar Birotteau, and the periodical La Sylphide, le Journal des Elegances, scented each issue with a different fragrance by Guerlain.

Guerlain catered to the high society of Paris, and obtained a very loyal following. The perfume house was so successful that Guerlain decided to open a flagship store at 15, Rue de la Paix in Paris in 1840. The house was at its peak in 1853 with it's fragrance Eau de Cologne Imperiale. This perfume gained Guerlain the prestigious title of His Majesty's Official Perfumer of France. This in turn led him to create perfumes for other royals such as Queen Victoria of England, the Empress Sissi of Austria, the Queen of Belgium and Queen Isabella of Spain as well as other crowned heads of royalty.

Pierre-Francois passed away in 1854 and his sons inherited the perfume house. Aime became the master perfumer, a tradition that would be upheld for the next master perfumer in lineage. Gabriel managed and further expanded the house.

Cuir de Russie by Guerlain is a Leather fragrance for women and men. This perfume was launched in 1872. The nose behind this fragrance is Aime Guerlain.

"The name Cuir de Russie, meaning "Russian leather", was by all accounts inspired by the historical fact that the Russian army used highly fragrant birch tar to tan and treat its military boots, giving the leather a very characteristic odour. The Guerlain annals reveal that Aimé Guerlain used the name Cuir de Russie as far back as 1872, but since his original fragrance was reformulated by Jacques Guerlain in 1935, we don't know what it smelled like.

Right from the start, we’re hit by the poignant smoky-black scent of birch tar, smelling like the commingled odours of a fireplace, a tannery, and fence paint. Hidden underneath is a very feminine flower bouquet of gardenia, lilac and ylang-ylang, but the smoky top note almost overpowers it. The most interesting part of the perfume is perhaps when the smoke fades and we surprisingly find the scent of Mitsouko, actually its whole roster of bergamot, peach, rose, jasmine, oakmoss, orris, and patchouli.

Cuir de Russie is a curiosity in the world of Guerlain, a perfume whose bitter smokiness very few of today's women would find pleasant, possibly attracting only a discerning minority. Perfume aficionados, however, tend to be fascinated with historic leather scents.” Excerpts from Monsieur Guerlain.

"The fragrance opens with a distinctly herbacious note which is both powerful and masculine, a sharp contrast to Gabrielle’s classic aldehydic opening. This intense green and almost medicinal quality gives rise to the richest, smokiest leather I have ever experienced, making it evident that the fragrance was composed long before any restrictions on birch tar came into effect. The impression is of a much more rustic and pre-revolutionary Russia than either of its 20th century counterparts, which evoke more of a Russian in Paris feel. Not so the Guerlain, which reminds me of the thick, rough leather boots of a cossack warrior atop a charging steed in the cold night air.

While the intensity of smoke and leather is prevalent for several hours, making me question the scent’s intended gender audience, the fragrance does a complete about-face in the drydown, softening into a gorgeously soft floral bouquet. There is a hint of jasmine overlaying the leather which has now receded into the background, deepened by hints of vanilla and animalic notes.
It is this odd interplay between masculine and feminine elements that reveals the true magic of the House of Guerlain. These disparate fragrance themes could not have been carried out by any other perfumer, and yet Guerlain flawlessly melds the two into one, invoking the grandeur of a revolutionary fantasy with the promise of a bright and beautiful future. Quintessence.

Top notes are Lavender, Rosemary, Thyme, Bergamot, and Neroli
Heart notes are Jasmine, Gardenia, Rose, Lilac, Ylang Ylang, Birch, Amber, and Patchouli
Base notes are Rosewood, Vetiver, Styrax, Labdanum, Benzoin, Oak Moss, Leather, and Orris

Offered here is a beautiful 80 ml. flacon of the wonderful perfume. It has been previously opened and gently used. Suited to both men and women, this is an unforgettable fragrance .. It leaves a trail of warm suede on the skin. A true classic!

It comes with its original inner presentation box ..