Bienaimé, Bienaime, Coffret, Fleurs d'Été, Cuir de Russie, Caravane, 3 x 15 ml. Flacons, Parfum Extrait, 1935, 1950, Paris, France ..

Robert Bienaimé studied the chemistry of perfume in college and excelled. Within three years Bienaimé had mastered the basics of perfume creation and had adopted a creation style of his own. He worked initially for Houbigant, and continued to create for Houbigant until sometime shortly after the financial meltdown of 1929.

After the death of Paul Parquet at Houbigant, Robert Bienaimé became co-partner with Fernando Javal, son of the late Alfred Javal, Parquet's partner in Houbigant who had worked the marketing and production sides of the business. The Houbigant firm briefly took on the Javal name and then became Bienaimé Houbigant. During these years of expansion Bienaimé brought to Houbigant the talents of Paul Schving, Paul Leroux, Raymond Kling, André Copaux, Degont Desplanques and Marcel Billot among others.

In 1935, Bienaimé launched his own Paris fragrance house, originally located at 396-rue saint-Honoré, Paris, where Bienaimé began to create fragrances under his own name. Bienaimé fragrances continued to appear during the 1940's and existed until 1950, but it would appear that the house did not survive for long after the war. Bienaimé also launched a cosmetics company under the name Robel. In spite of considerable activity in support of various industrial processes and other institutions, Bienaimé continued his involvement in his own perfume company until his death in 1960 at the age of 84.

Robert Bienaimé is one of my favourite perfumers of all time. He created' La Vie en Fleurs' in 1935, right at the same time he launched 'Fleurs D'Ete'. Both are the most beautiful feminine florals. As perfumer for Houbigant from around 1910 to 1935, Robert Bienaimé created fragrances such as Lilac, a single flower fragrance and, one of Houbigants all time best sellers, Quelques Fleurs, a floral bouquet.

* Launched in 1935, Fleurs d'Été, or Summer Flowers, is a hauntingly beautiful perfume, sweet and feminine, alluring and enveloping, and without doubt one of my all time favorites.

Top Notes are Bergamot, Tarragon, Lemon, and Orange Blossom
Heart Notes are Jasmine, Tuberose, Lily of the valley, Violet, Rose, Carnation, and Lilac
Base notes are Oak Moss, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Orris, and Tonka Bean

* Launched in 1935, when Robert Bienaimé launched his own perfume house .. Parfums de Bienaimé .. among his first successful creations was his Cuir de Russie. At the time, this "Russian Leather" theme was popular, having been used to great effect by Chanel, Guerlain, and others. Unlike today when fragrances must carry unique names, in France in the first half of the 20th Century, a number of marketers might hit on the same, or a similar, name.

"After five to ten minutes Cuir de Russie recalls fumed rawhide, the soft scraped skin, smoked to a light brown color but not soaked in birch tar. Resinous notes of cistus and styrax, smooth and transparent, appear cautiously, and if smoked birch tar is present, it's in a very minor quantity. The animalic character is complemented by a very natural soft musk and warm civet. Some orthodox smell of styrax and benzoin is added to the leathery facet. Later, beneath the resins are found bitter woody chords: notes of oakmoss and vetiver, with smooth warm balsamic notes and possibly orris—smells like a lacquered table, partly covered with leather.

In the last gasps the perfume gives slightly sweet warmth, but not that of flowers. Instead it's the warm, undyed underside of a leather belt, just taken off the body, and a thin benzoin sweetness reminiscent of Soviet sugar dragée.

Top notes are Aldehydes, Orange Blossom, Bergamot, and Mandarin
Heart notes are Rose, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Iris, and Labdanum
Base notes are Oak Moss, Vetiver, Cedar, Styrax, Leather, Amber, and Vanilla

The composition starts with aldehydes moderated by mild nectar of classical trio of rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang. The ending comes as smoky, animalistic note of dark leather.

* Launched in 1936, Caravane is a wonderful exotic spicy fragrance, reminiscent of the Far East, desert caravans carrying Persian carpets, incenses, and other beautiful trade items. It was created during a time when the European countries were becoming fascinated and beguiled by the art, religions, and lifestyles of the Asian continent and were beginning to incorporate some of these arts into their own homes and lives.

The fascination with the Orient was a growing trend, and perfumers such as Bienaime were seeking new ingredients to create exotic scents for the fashionable women of Paris. Warm and sensual spices such as cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg are united with oriental materials, such as exotic woods and resins. These traditional oriental ingredients are further enriched with beautiful accords of warm sandalwood or with drier notes of cedar or vetiver. Amber, frankincense and myrrh bring warmth and sensuality. These opulent bouquets includes intoxicating and intensive substances such as musk, vanilla, exotic resins and rare flowers exotic flowers.

Top notes are Ylang Ylang, Jasmine and Taif Rose
Heart notes are Leather Cinnamon, Clove, Nutmeg, and Anise
Base notes are Sandalwood, Vetiver, Frankincense, and Amber

"The initial impression upon opening a bottle of Caravane is one of overwhelming, warm and reassuring vanilla, yet this note is not listed in its make-up. This may be due to the initial presence of ylang and jasmine. The spiciness of the cinnamon, clove and nutmeg emerge next, yet these are not at all sharp, but blended beautifully in a sort of Christmas cookie aroma. The presence of Taif Rose is new to my nose. The internet tells me it is of the damask variety, hails from Saudi Arabia, and boasts an intense, powdery rose with hints of tea and honey. This emerges next to float over the spices. The solid base of sandalwood, vetiver, frankincense, amber and musk reminds me of so many other wonderful chypres from the 1930s and 1940s, so it seems to have been a popular combination. There is the experience of there being an encompassing dryness to the whole, as if a good deal of orris had been employed, yet again this is not in the note tree."

"Thus, the overall impression is of a honeyed, subtly spiced rose with a rich chypre base. To say this is wonderful to experience is an understatement. Although created for women, this would today be perfectly acceptable for a man to wear, due to its subtle blending and restrained dryness. My husband reacts to the amber and leather, finding it a rich, dark and thick combination. He notes that the florals are being constantly “refreshed” by the spices, which he finds to be darkly sweet. He envisions this worn by a woman of quality and vibrancy, a bon vivant with a warm and sensual presence. One of the very finest rose centered perfumes I have experienced to date. Highly recommended. Although long out of production, there are thankfully internet sellers who can still provide bottles. This is one to seek out for all rose lovers." Basenotes Review. Jack Twist

Offered here is a charming trio of half ounce Bienaime perfumes .. Fleurs d'Été, Cuir de Russie, and Caravane .. in their adorable presentation box. These have never been opened or used, though some evaporation has occurred over the years, mostly with the Caravane ..

So precious and very collectible .. !