E. Coudray, Rêve de Paris, 'Dream of Paris', Soft Leather, 50 ml. 1.76 oz. Flacon, Pure Parfum Extrait, Lalique, 1920, Paris, France ..

A small perfume shop named M. Maugenet & E.Coudray was established in Paris around 1810. Edmond Coudray, a doctor-chemist, traveled over the world bringing back exotic raw materials for the production of perfumes. In 1837 the house of Coudray became the official supplier to the British Court and was a favourite of Queen Victoria. Coudray Parfums remained the family business until 1908. when it was acquired by Edouard Colmant. After the World War II the house was revived thanks to the survival of many of the formulas of the original perfumes.

They later opened a small cosmetics and perfume shop called Maugenet & Coudray located at 348 rue Saint-Honore, Paris in 1882. The company produced many luxury presentations and won several awards. They won two silver awards at the 1882 Exhibition, one for their eau de cologne.

Edmond Coudray went on to enjoy a spectacular career, creating Eaux de Cologne, pomades, creams and soaps for the crowned heads of France, Italy and England .. including Queen Victoria, for whom the perfume ‘Reine Victoria’ was made. Others gloried in names like ‘Gants Poudrés’ .. powdered gloves .. and ‘Rêve de Reine’ .. the Queen’s dream. And in 1829 he also wrote a book, charmingly titled ‘L’Art d’Être Belle’ .. The Art of Being Beautiful.

At the end of the 19th Century, Coudray was appointed official supplier to the English court. By then, along with L.T. Piver, Guerlain, Lubin and Houbigant, E. Coudray was unquestionably one of the five great perfume-makers of the 19th Century. The boutique became a rendezvous for the Imperial royal family, the Marshals of the Empire and the new nobility, who swooned for E. Coudray‘s creations.

Entwined with the history of French luxury itself, Coudray opened a store on rue Saint-Honoré, in Paris .. They were famed for scented indulgences including ‘sachet powders’, for the linen closet, and for lettuce soap – renowned for its kindness to the complexion. Queen Victoria’s said to be a fan of that, too. On the death of Edmond Coudray in 1860, his son-in-law took over the company – which remained a family business for many, many decades and was later revived after World War II thanks to the survival of its precious formulas.

Rêve de Paris was originally launched in 1822. It is an essentially feminine perfume. This bottle appears to have been previously opened and the string retied. Some writers have described this particular flacon as being made by Lalique, but there are no markings on the bottom. The engraved crystal bouchon or stopper looks like Lalique.

The scent coming from the neck of the bottle is sweet and unctuous, a honeyed and floral chypre, which would include rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, lilac and carnation. These are supported on a composition of oak moss, and labdanum. The base has the sweetness of sandalwood and ambergris.

" My immediate impression is that of a deep, rich floral chypre with a leather undercurrent. Since there is no orris listed and “leather” is a note made up of other oils, I am wondering what exactly Is giving me this leather/suede vibe. The carnation rises up to give this richness a bit of spice, along with the balanced mélange of rose, jasmine and muguet. The base is also exceedingly well blended, giving comforting resinous warmth throughout the dry down. It is certainly very attractive and very unisex by today’s standards. It’s rather exciting experiencing a scent created 195 years ago and knowing I am enjoying not chemicals or additives, but a mixture of pure oil extracts.

I have experienced and enjoyed many rich honeyed chypres from the 1920s, 1930s, and 1940s and it is a surprise to me to encounter their ancestor so far removed in time from the later reincarnations. Reve de Paris may also be the ancestor for the “cuir” genre that would be so prevalent in the latter half of the nineteenth century. A fabulous scent, a rich, honeyed floral chypre for all lovers of vintage parfum. Basenotes Review, Jack Twist

Top notes are Hesperidic Notes, Bergamot, Neroli, and Orange Blossom
Heart notes are Rose, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, and Carnation
Base notes are Oak Moss, Leather, Labdanum, Sandalwood, and Ambergris

Offered here is a lovely flacon of this lovely and long disappeared perfume, 'Dreams of Paris'. It has a light leather or suede note that lingers for some time. The bottle has been previously opened and gently used. Label is somewhat worn and discolored ..